How can I replace meat without loosing taste?

This is one of the most frequently asked questions. People do not seem able to cope with the idea that you can feel fully satisfied without a meaty meal. Let’s take for instance the hamburger as a concept. Everyone would immediately wonder about a dripping saucy round object made with minced beef meat, instead...

Concept woolen burger

...instead a burger is something more conceptual. Burger derives from hamburger, which comes from the city of Hamburg. So technically it just means something done following the Hamburg fashion whatever it is. 
So, I will attempt a double observation. The first one is that we all have to free our minds from preconceptions. Meat very often works as the laziest choice, yet many preparations are actually tastier and more creative. The following picture summarises wonderfully the idea:

clever provocative campaign in Germany on Der Veggieburger 

The second consideration takes EmilyDickinson in. I know that plausibly the ravishing model Emily Ratajkowski (after all her nakedness) would have been a better hook to fish attentions for my argument, but Emily Dickinson has a different touch:

Portrait of Emily Ratajkowski

She (Emily Dickinson) meditates on the very food of the soul, which is the chance to taste the divine with ecstasies of stealth. Beyond the religious metaphor, the authentic food is that responsible nourishment we deal with throughout questioning where it comes from and how much it did cost to be what it is:

J1651 (?) / F1715 (?)

A Word made Flesh is seldom


And tremblingly partook


Nor then perhaps reported


But have I not mistook


Each one of us has tasted


With ecstasies of stealth


The very food debite


To our specific strength -

The best part of each of us, our specific strength, if I read the poem correctly, has the chance to perceive this authentic food and sense fulfillment, without falling down again the easiest choices. We all dwell in possibility, the human inner condition of seeing things from different and magnified perspectives:

Finally, I wish to put before your curiosity a superb recipe, which involves simple ingredients (I found the ingredients in Carrefour and Naturalia):

• muffins anglais (to know more);
• organic spelt burger (épeautre); 
• 1 organic chestnut mushroom (cut horizontally);
• organic mixed salad;
• organic brie (or another French creamy cheese);
• neither salt nor pepper.

what are they? muffin anglais,
but it is very likely they are a sort of French scone,
147 kcal per bun

Toast the muffin and let the brie melt on top of the burger,
which was gently fired with this savory chestnut mushroom

Here we are, voilà et bon apetit

Amount of calories: considering all the ingredients involved, the kcal are surprisingly 450 per burger.
Cost: around 2,50€/3€ per burger.
Time: between 4 and 6 minutes. 2/3 for each side of the burger.

The new wave: being vegetarian and why

Living in Paris affects your life. It is not Paris of course, it is always you: the idea you have of Paris kicks the change in, because you have to challenge it. Something dormant within myself came out.

Monumental graveyard of Montparnasse

How was my Paris? A stupendous idea taken from books and films, I was utterly wrong. Paris drove a slightly different kind of mutation, something intimate: a sort of secular revelation. I could not stand any longer the cultural idea of not being able to see pigs, cows, horses and chickens simply as we look at cats, hamsters and dogs.

I felt a sense of love and belonging without boundaries:

Wallis Simpson and Edward VIII,
a matter of love that prevailed on duty.

When I came to this conclusion, the alleged necessity of enjoying eating the flesh of other sensitive beings had vanished. I went through a series of refurbishments of my inner Self and I ultimately became vegetarian (neither industrial meat nor venison nor fish nor insects):

Roy Lichtenstein, pop art,  Centre Pompidou, Fall 2013

My diet became more essential, and somehow more creative. I had to cope with an absence, which imposed to my creativity to be more alive. Every absence makes us stronger. It took me a while to figure out how to communicate all this new deal of impressions on the blog.

I hope i won't ever slip into being a vegetarian-taliban. I don't despise nor hate who clutches to a carnivorous alimentary regime: the process of respect toward animals is a slow march of self-determination. When you find yourself, you do not need an external sacrifice to prove you are alive. For me, it has been as lowering down a mask.

Tribal mask, in rue Bonaparte (close to Saint Germain de Pres)

Now, I know better that my editorial line should be less involuted and more straight to the point, something more inspirational. Enjoy then the ideas that gradually sprang out from my mind:

Tofu steak cooked on a pan with extra-virgin olive oil, capers and garlic,
then dressed with creamy organic balsamic vinegar.
Side it with crunchy salad and roasted peppers,
all sprinkled in Chia seeds

Two ingredient recipes: an allegory for happy couples

How to define a recipe? Adding stuff to stuff is perhaps a quick, effective, true, and intuitive answer, but I prefer to craft a response that considers the intellectual gap between food and recipe! Theorem: a recipe is the rational combination of two or more edible ingredients that cannot be separated anymore. Moreover these ingredients must be raw and non semifinished produces (like puff pastry for instance): the union of these two components turns into a new element, as Hydrogen consists in one proton and one electron.

Monsieur La Palisse (or better the incorrect memory we keep of this man and his lapalissade) would emphasize my opinion stating that one ingredient alone cannot be considered a recipe, otherwise some fruit and vegetables could have been labelled as recipes. They are nourishments, this is obvious, but they need a process, through which they evolve into something new.

Some friends benevolently contested that several recipes I edited where apparently too complicated..."you need a professional cupboard to store all those tricks"! So I opted for an easier, every day POV: this happened to be also an omen, since in Paris à l'internat de l'ENS the chance to cook properly is more or less a vain illusion. This experiment wishes to demonstrate how very simple combinations may radically change your approach to cooking. At the same time, a no-fuss effort is required and your meals may jump to a nice different level. At this stage, it is not anymore a matter of difficulty, but laziness. What i suggest is to armonise only two things!

Chapeau!

Extra-virgin olive oil, pepper (or chilli) and salt are definitely ingredients, because they enter (from the Latin ingdredior: to gent into, to enter, to move…to walk into something) into preparations: nonetheless, because they are pretty much always necessary in recipes, I consider them as a pre-requisite linked to personal taste. Try to make a pasta tomato sauce without basil and garlic and you will taste something miserable. Actually, I often consume my salad as it comes (mud excluded)

Here are then some examples of two ingredient recopies:

From the freezer to the pan: Waitrose organic spinach, finally drizzled with organic soy-sauce.	We aren't frozen anymore
Almost ready	The garlic moves as a moon

Salmon fillet and lemon juice

 

Kindly provided by Duchy: Bread and Butter

Chocolate bread and butter

 

Hedgehog of organic potatoes with matured Waitrose brie

Raspberries and chocolate:
it is not an idea of mine,
yet worth sharing!

Roasted chicory with sweet balsamic vinegar
&
bresaola wrapping a goat cheese

In the end, two ingredient recipes came out as an homage to couples, where two separate ingredients are mingling well together: 

Where to eat in Edinburgh? And why?

I would like to suggest only five places in the Old Town. The number of independent cafes is high, but a wide percentage of them is frankly miserable, despite the effort: grumpy stuff, wrong cooking procedure, poor primary sources, clumsiness in the how-to-roast-a-coffee. 

The old town, back in the days

Considering the average prices a customer usually has to confront with, it is then reasonable to choose only what’s best on the market: like bees do, it is worthy picking up solely the nectar from the top flowers.

The five places I have chosen are the following: 

1. Olly Bongos bistro (http://www.yelp.co.uk/biz/olly-bongos-edinburgh-2)
2. Peter’s Yard (http://www.petersyard.com/ )
3. Victor Hugo (http://www.victorhugodeli.com/)
4. Peckhams (http://www.peckhams.co.uk/home/branches/edinburgh-south-clerk-st.aspx)
5. Earthy (http://www.earthy.uk.com/)

Why only this five? Some people may argue – with some rightfulness - that Le café Gourmand, Bar Artista, The Olive tree, Biblos, Black Medicine, Patisserie Valerie (though it is chain), Elephant house, The Scottish storytelling centre and Café Turquaz are pretty good as well. Many other friends talked favourably of the Chocolate tree on Brunsfield, but I could not pay a visit! In the end I wished to review those place I knew better, where the staff was always friendly, helpful and professional and where the food was every time impeccable and innovative.

Ollybongo: simple and splendid, especially the cutlery that seems to belong to a Scandinavian monarch (for my Canadian best friend Chels) to the Easter Island mysterious former inhabitants for me. 

Easter Islands or Rapa Nui	Magnificent Cappuccino
Helpful portion of pancakes	My vegetarian breakfast

Greek-ish Mediterranean breakfast and Chels' French manicure

The food is delicious, coffee and cappuccino were over the usual standard, the portions helpful, the service very kind. I tried it for a veggie British breakfast, but I feel it has some interesting wild cards for the other daily-meals as well! The toilet is functional.

How Olly Bongos looks from the outside (red frame)

Peckhams: lunch…oh what a memorable lunch! I have been here with several friends: David & Carolina, Marie & Gaëtan to mention two solid couples. My own couple did not survive, but I preserve a relish of great memories. Anyways, in Peckhams can pick up from the aisle what captures your attention and then an extremely enthusiastic staff will promptly serve you at the tables. Quality is superb, prices are a bit too high for a student wallet. Yet, if you wish to treat out someone or just yourself for a blossoming brunch Peckhams is brilliant choice. Moreover, if you wish to food-shop you can seriously find some of the best delicatessens in town. The toilets are downstairs: an occasion to peep into the cellar.

Antipasti artichokes as big as scepters	Soup of the day with brown bread
Quiche comes always with salad

Peter’sYard: Peter, as a person, can be considered a fanatic, yet in a good sense. His ambition is that of making people happy and comfortable, to deliver the best to them. Check this review as well.

Basia, a recent incredible friend, told me, Peter changed his oven almost after the purchase, since he wanted to deliver a different pizza, not jut a belly-filler one. He truly believes in what he does! Pizza, desserts, bread, scones, tea and coffees are embarrassingly gorgeous. 

I regret it is too central, so, of course, swarms of people who appreciate his philosophy gather there. The university is close by and because it is fashionable it is full of hippy-hipsters as well. 

Food-prices are convincing and the staff looks committed and sympathetic. Perhaps the service is too slow! Toilets are clean and spacious and marked by cookie cutters.

VictorHugo is, instead, dimensional portal to France. From the frame, the tablecloths and the offer of produces you are not anymore in Edinburgh. Now that I live in Paris, I can confirm this early impression. 

The variety of tarts and specialities puts some joy-powder on your wings. They also display a wonderful range of teas: as you may remember Teapigs is becoming my tea-obsession. And, for carnivorous palates, their aisle keeps both Spanish and Italian hams is well equipped. The Italian Parma ham I tasted was beyond imagination, yet dully cut too thickly. 

Prices are meant to attract the posh students dwelling in Marchmont road, but the standard is seriously high and the staff well trained to make you stay at ease. Even the toilet is fancy, dark and glittery as a cave or a submarine, Spartan and elegant at the same time.

Possibly the greatest French writer,
buried inside the Panthèon, Paris
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Victor_Hugo 

Evidently, pioneers of sustainable nourishment run Earthy. We have to make a distinction between the food warehouse and the cafeteria. Within the first one you can find raw materials and primary sources, like in a supermarket, whereas the cafeteria puts in acto the care for this food philosophy. Both are top quality areas. I won’t comment on the food hall here, but it deserves a visit: especially if you wish to find organic and biodynamic wines when you pay homage to some of your friends.

The patio area

The cafeteria offers a unique coffee…wondrously done and close to the best Italian tradition. I feel to complain only with sizes. If you want a cappuccino, ask for a white coffee, since the actual cappuccino is a bath full of milk: the service is quick and extremely warm and in the end you seriously wish to leave tips. The environment is woody and rustic, but efficacious.

A cleverly done Macchiato

Cakes, tarts, scones (OMG) and salads are a serenade of taste and health. Water comes in old bottles filled with mint or cucumber. Every sugar bag is branded with fair-trade logo and MOST IMPORTANTLY during the Scottish “summer” (hoping it lasts) there is an astonishing backyard, half a garden, half a patio, half a playground, half a plant nursery that will positively surprise you. Thanks to a wide mirror, you can actually see who’s coming at your back, if you are waiting for more friends, and spaces are redoubled! 

Check this blog as well 
the Earthy I am describing is instead in Ratcliff Terrace,
opposite the petrol station

The toilet is welcoming and desecrate and you can be sure that toilet paper comes from renewable sources. There also is a comfortable easy access for strollers and wheelchair. Finally a good size parking lot enables you to park really close, in case of big shoppings.

Steam with esteem en papillote: lazy cooking mood on

Fancy but it is a space eater, if you have a small kitchen	Practical but ugly
It tends to get mouldy	I personally favour this one

Just to show off a little bit

There are at least three ways to deal with steam in cuisine: the first one is having either a bamboo, a glass or steel steamer, the second having an electric steamer, the last one is cooking en papillote, that is wrapping your desired food in aluminum foil and exploiting its natural humidity. In addition, you can spice up your recipe with flavorsome olive oil, organic lemon and fresh herbs! 

HOW DOES IT LOOK LIKE

FIRST OBSERVATIONS

Advantages: 

1. you do not dirt any casserole;

1- 1/2. you can prepare it in advance or even frozen it;

2. it does not take more than 25 minutes to cook for fish, or 40 minutes for a chicken thigh, 20 minutes for chopped vegetables all at 200 °C;

2- 1/2. if you feel lazy it really takes the time of a long shower or mail check;

3. you can cook more than one papillote at a time;

4. guests are usually impressed by the taste and the absence of excessive smell in the living room.

Disadvantages:

1. guests will ask for more, because it is QUITE LOW IN CALORIES;

2. the food tastes better when you serve it straight away from the oven;

3. you do not have to break the foil;

4. if you spoil it, it is better to get a regular dinner deal with your local restaurant!

"PLEASE SIR, I WANT SOME MORE"
(C. DICKENS, DAVID COPPERFIELD)

IN ADDITION

Which are the major benefits? You keep all the nutrients inside what you are cooking. Secondly, you can season less, so, as a consequence, you add less calories to what you are eating. Thirdly the texture of your preparation will appear more genuine and you will have less kitchenware to clean. Lastly, especially for vegetables, the colours will remain vibrant, a sort of visual crispiness. Let’s move to some eye-sizing examples: 

• duck pullet;
• chicken with vegetables; 
• sea bream with vegetables;
• vegetarian couscous.

Duck pullet with herbs	Duck pullet with a disk of lemon underneath
Chiken with vegetables	Sea bream with a rose of vegetables

Here I'm cheating a bit, using a moroccan tajine: my sister brought me some cumin from Istambul! I was spoiled!

Final result: add couscous only during the last 5 mins of the cooking process.

In general, just make sure you are using an extremely nice extra-virgin olive oil and you will enoble with it the humbleness of your dish. Usually, we link the idea of taste to elaborateness. It can be true for some preparations, yet it is false for the majority: BRING OUT THE NATURAL FLAVOR. Now that I am working in a restaurant – experience I’ll treat in this blog as soon as it will be over – I can see how much waste and tastelessness there can be on both sides, that of pseudo-chef and that of customers (a thing very sad to state!)

With beetroots you can give a nice distinctive sweet taste
and a purple pigment to the meat! Dare trying!

Quite often I see too richly dressed dishes, killing and covering, under shrouds of cream, the actual taste of things: this preparation allows you to bring forward the true taste of ingredients with a lazy cooking mood on!